How the South West is Won: Perth to Margaret River road trip

Aerial view of a woman on a boardwalk over shallow water and ancient thromobolites, Yalgorup National Park, WA

On a trip to Western Australia, Sarah and Chris discover you don’t have to venture far from the capital to find the best of the good life. Combine surfing, hikes and fine food and wine to unleash your wild side.

It might be a long flight to the other side of the country, but there are heaps of options for a self-drive holiday once you land in Perth. Chris and I – long fans of water and waves – have always wanted to check out the coast on the way to Margaret River. So, we pre-booked a vehicle from Apex Car Rentals and have picked it up at Perth Airport. I’ve even brought the picnic wine glasses because good chardonnay is a feature of this part of the world.

Seal of Approval: Perth to Mandurah

Aerial view of an uninhabited island just off the coast of Rockingham, Penguin Island, Western Australia

After a night in Perth, we get up with the sparrows to head to Shoalwater. By 9am we’re out on the ocean heading towards Penguin Island. There are lots of ways to enjoy this wildlife hotspot, but we’re spending most of the day on sea kayaks. Sea lions dive near us, we pass a pelican colony and dolphins swim by to see what we’re up to. Towards the end of the paddle, our guide takes us to a deserted beach and we snorkel in the bay. When it comes to perfect starts to a holiday, I’m not sure it gets much better than this.

We arrive in Mandurah well before sunset, so head to Goegrup Lake, part of the Serpentine River, to hit the boardwalk. I’m a bit of a bird nerd and this is one of the many spots in the region where they are plentiful. After spying lots of ducks and herons, I’m beside myself when I see a couple of spoonbills strutting through the shallows and sifting for food. It’s a bird lover’s dream.

Let There Be Light: Mandurah to Dunsborough

A rock formation juts out of the crashing ocean, the sun setting behind it, Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, WA

We’ve not got many plans for this part of the journey, so we take our time, stopping at small beaches along the way and enjoying a quick tasting at Capel Vale. At Busselton, we walk right to the end of the jetty where you can step beneath the water at the observatory to see the soft corals, sponge and fish that have made the area near the pylons their home. A late lunch takes us to a former dairy farm near Metricup. Now it’s to Beerfarm, where really tasty craft beers, including an Australian pale ale called Calm Ya Farm, are made onsite. We take a seat near the brew shed and order loads of share plates. After a decent drive, Korean chicken wings, charred local octopus and crispy lamb ribs are just what we need.

Our final stop on this part of the journey has saved countless ships passing in the night. At Cape Naturaliste lighthouse we climb the stairs to the balcony. Thankfully, because of its elevated site, it’s not a particularly tall building, so anyone can make it up here. And the views are incredible. We can see right over the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, Geographe Bay and the Indian Ocean. Then we hit the 3.5-kilometre trail from the lighthouse along a paved trail. It’s stunning, with crashing surf on one side and gorgeous wildflowers on the other, and it leads to Sugarloaf Rock. I’m glad I brought the camera with me – with the sun low in the sky and people climbing over the rocky coastline, my shots are epic.

Farm Fresh: Dunsborough to Margaret River

Aerial view of a natural rock pool called The Aquarium, with people snorkelling in the water and sitting on the rocks, WA

Chris can’t contain himself and he’s up as the sun begins to rise. He’s rented a board from a local surf shop and he’s pretty keen to use it. The surf break at Injidup Beach is our first stop. There are a few people around, despite the early hour, and I go for a swim before going scrambling over the rocks that punctuate the sand.

When Chris finally comes in and peels off the wetsuit, ecstatic about how many waves he’s caught, we drop the board back and head north. We follow part of the Cape to Cape Track through the scrubby bush to The Aquarium. This is a natural beauty, and not just on the surface. We slip on our masks and snorkels and check out the fish. Afterwards, we dry off on the rocks, watching the crabs scuttling around, before the long walk back to the car.

All that water and exercise has left us famished and we’ve found a gem. Meelup Farmhouse is pretty much what it says on the label. Mark and Liz Ahearn have a hobby farm with alpacas, chickens and a highland cow, and they’ve created a wonderful venue where the produce of the South West is laid on the table. We wash the salt away with a local pale ale before ordering gnocchi topped with shaved Manjimup truffle and linguine with blue swimmer crab. It’s a great way to enjoy the Margaret River, and leaves us with enough energy to power through an afternoon of tastings at the likes of Leeuwin Estate. Can you pack wine in your cabin baggage?

Farm Fresh: Dunsborough to Margaret River

Aerial view of a natural rock pool called The Aquarium, with people snorkelling in the water and sitting on the rocks, WA

Chris can’t contain himself and he’s up as the sun begins to rise. He’s rented a board from a local surf shop and he’s pretty keen to use it. The surf break at Injidup Beach is our first stop. There are a few people around, despite the early hour, and I go for a swim before going scrambling over the rocks that punctuate the sand.

When Chris finally comes in and peels off the wetsuit, ecstatic about how many waves he’s caught, we drop the board back and head north. We follow part of the Cape to Cape Track through the scrubby bush to The Aquarium. This is a natural beauty, and not just on the surface. We slip on our masks and snorkels and check out the fish. Afterwards, we dry off on the rocks, watching the crabs scuttling around, before the long walk back to the car.

All that water and exercise has left us famished and we’ve found a gem. Meelup Farmhouse is pretty much what it says on the label. Mark and Liz Ahearn have a hobby farm with alpacas, chickens and a highland cow, and they’ve created a wonderful venue where the produce of the South West is laid on the table. We wash the salt away with a local pale ale before ordering gnocchi topped with shaved Manjimup truffle and linguine with blue swimmer crab. It’s a great way to enjoy the Margaret River, and leaves us with enough energy to power through an afternoon of tastings at the likes of Leeuwin Estate. Can you pack wine in your cabin baggage?